Sunscreen: What to know about organic vs inorganic sun care

防晒：有机与无机防晒知识

What are the differences between organic and inorganic sunscreen, and how can consumers use this knowledge when choosing sunscreens? Eileen Zhang, General Manager at Hallstar, explains.

有机防晒霜和无机防晒霜有什么区别，消费者在选择防晒霜时如何使用这些知识？Hallstar的总经理Eileen Zhang解释道。

This article is sponsored by Hallstar.

本文由Hallstar赞助。

When choosing different sunscreen products, consumers take many factors into consideration, including SPF values, broad spectrum claims, UVA-PF value or PA+ rating, and the type of filters used: organic versus inorganic.

在选择不同的防晒产品时，消费者会考虑许多因素，包括SPF值、广谱声明、UVA-PF值或PA+评级，以及使用的过滤器类型：有机与无机。

Organic UV filters are a group of carbon-containing compounds designed to absorb UV radiation.

有机紫外线过滤器是一组含碳化合物，旨在吸收紫外线辐射。

To maintain effectiveness over time, they should not alter chemically after repeated UV irradiation.

为了随着时间的推移保持有效性，它们在重复紫外线照射后不应发生化学变化。

However, many common organic UV filters, when they absorb UV radiation and enter their energy-rich excited states, are often unable to quickly release the excited state energy to return to their ground state where they are stable and ready to absorb additional UV energy.

然而，许多常见的有机紫外线滤光片，当它们吸收紫外线辐射并进入其能量丰富的激发态时，通常无法快速释放激发态能量以返回到它们稳定并准备吸收额外紫外线能量的基态。

These unstable UV filters will photodegrade over time in the sun, losing their absorption capability and generating photoproducts that have not been studied for their safety on human skin.

随着时间的推移，这些不稳定的紫外线滤光器会在阳光下发生光降解，失去吸收能力，并产生尚未对其对人体皮肤的安全性进行研究的光产物。

An example is avobenzone (INCI: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane).

一个例子是芳基苯酮（INCI：丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷）。

While a very common and globally-approved UVA filter, it is notoriously unstable under UV radiation.

虽然它是一种非常常见的、全球认可的UVA过滤器，但在紫外线辐射下它是出了名的不稳定。

Hallstar was one of the first companies to discover the photodegradation of avobenzone and dedicated many years of research to developing a range of solutions for its stabilisation.

Hallstar是最早发现伏苯酮光降解的公司之一，并致力于多年的研究，开发一系列稳定伏苯酮的解决方案。

Inorganic UV filters, on the other hand, are a group of mineral oxides such as titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO).

另一方面，无机紫外线滤光片是一组矿物氧化物，如二氧化钛（TiO2）和氧化锌（ZnO）。

They are often referred to as ‘physical’ filters, as compared with ‘chemical’ filters, which are organic compounds.

与有机化合物“化学”过滤器相比，它们通常被称为“物理”过滤器。

There is a common misconception that inorganic filters only reflect, scatter and refract sunlight, and as such are safer to our skin than organic filters.

有一种常见的误解是，无机滤镜只反射、散射和折射阳光，因此对我们的皮肤比有机滤镜更安全。

In fact, both titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are semiconducting materials capable of absorbing UV energy, which contributes most of their UV shielding ability.

事实上，二氧化钛（TiO2）和氧化锌（ZnO）都是能够吸收紫外线能量的半导体材料，这对它们的紫外线屏蔽能力有很大贡献。

After absorbing UV energy, these mineral particles are promoted to their conducting band and become photoactive.

在吸收紫外线能量后，这些矿物颗粒被提升到它们的导带并变得具有光活性。

"Organic UV filters are a group of carbon-containing compounds designed to absorb UV radiation"

有机紫外线过滤器是一组旨在吸收紫外线辐射的含碳化合物

In addition, TiO2 and ZnO are well-known active photocatalysts used extensively in heterogeneous photocatalysis to destroy environmental pollutants that are organic in nature.

此外，TiO2和ZnO是众所周知的活性光催化剂，广泛用于多相光催化，以破坏自然界中的有机环境污染物。

When photoactivated by UV light, TiO2 and ZnO are known to generate highly oxidising radicals such as ?OH, and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as H2O2 and singlet oxygen, 1O2, which are known to be cytotoxic and genotoxic.

当被紫外光光活化时，已知TiO2和ZnO会产生高度氧化的自由基，如?OH，以及其他活性氧（ROS），如H2O2和单线态氧1O2，它们已知具有细胞毒性和遗传毒性。

Hydroxyl (OH) radicals photogenerated from photoactive TiO2 specimens extracted from commercial sunscreen lotions induce damage to DNA plasmids in vitro and to whole human skin cells in cultures.

从商业防晒乳液中提取的光活性TiO2样品光生的羟基（OH）自由基在体外诱导对DNA质粒的损伤，在培养物中诱导对整个人类皮肤细胞的损伤。

To restrict the photoactivity of inorganic UV filters, all TiO2 and ZnO used in sunscreens must be surface treated.

为了限制无机紫外线滤光片的光活性，防晒霜中使用的所有TiO2和ZnO都必须进行表面处理。

Unfortunately, the quality of such treatment is not well controlled, and is often insufficient to inhibit all their photoactivity.

不幸的是，这种处理的质量没有得到很好的控制，并且通常不足以抑制它们的所有光活性。

Therefore, inorganic sunscreens commonly used in today’s market convey a false sense of security to the consumers.

因此，当今市场上常用的无机防晒霜向消费者传达了一种虚假的安全感。

Hallstar conducted a test on sunscreen filters using its AvoBright stabiliser

Hallstar使用其AvoBright稳定剂对防晒过滤器进行了测试

To reveal and monitor the photoactivity of inorganic filters, Hallstar proposed a test utilising the well-studied chemistry of DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl).

为了揭示和监测无机过滤器的光活性，Hallstar提出了一种利用DPPH（1,1-二苯基-2-苦基肼基）经过充分研究的化学性质进行测试的方法。

In this test, the DPPH solution is used as a free radical indicator.

在本试验中，DPPH溶液被用作自由基指示剂。

DPPH is a stable radical that scavenges other more reactive radicals.

DPPH是一种稳定的自由基，可以清除其他反应性更强的自由基。

The unreacted DPPH radical has a deep violet colour in solution. When it reacts with and is neutralised by other radicals, the solution becomes pale yellow to colourless.

未反应的DPPH自由基在溶液中呈深紫色。当它与其他自由基反应并被其他自由基中和时，溶液会变成淡黄色至无色。

During a typical test, ethanolic solutions of 0.01% (w/w) DPPH were used to disperse TiO2 particles.

在典型的试验过程中，使用0.01%（w/w）DPPH的乙醇溶液来分散TiO2颗粒。

The solution was irradiated under simulated sunlight or natural sunlight.

溶液在模拟阳光或自然阳光下照射。

Solutions with a common commercially surface treated cosmetic TiO2 turned to pale yellow, indicating the generation of abundant free radicals.

具有普通商业表面处理的化妆品TiO2的溶液变成淡黄色，表明产生了丰富的自由基。

When a Hallstar photostabiliser (AvoBrite) was added to the solution, it prevented the photogeneration of free radicals in a dose-dependent fashion, as indicated by the different shades of DPPH colour preservation in the presence of different amounts of AvoBrite.

当将Hallstar光稳定剂（AvoBrite）加入溶液中时，它以剂量依赖的方式阻止自由基的光生，如在不同量的AvoBrite存在下不同色调的DPPH保色所示。

To provide guaranteed safety of inorganic filters, Hallstar manufactures pre-protected inorganic dispersion products – the HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX (TiO2 dispersion) and HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX (ZnO dispersion) series.

为了保证无机过滤器的安全性，Hallstar生产预保护无机分散体产品——HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX（TiO2分散体）和HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX（ZnO分散体）系列。

This article was originally published in March 2019.

本文最初发表于2019年3月。

文章转载自：Cosmetics Business